It's Not the New Year Yet, But I Have a Resolution

I'm getting tired of writing posts in the aftermath of a horrific garment-factory fire. I wrote two in September (here and here), following the worst factory fire in Pakistan's history (one of several New York Times reports, here). And late last month there was another tragic fire, in Bangladesh.

New York Times reporter Vikas Bajaj wrote that "Bangladesh’s garment industry, the second-largest exporter of clothing after China, has a notoriously poor fire safety record. Since 2006, more than 500 Bangladeshi workers have died in factory fires..." Worse, many of the deaths were preventable, if proper -- or indeed any -- precautions had been taken. In the late November fire, another 112 workers were killed.

I hadn't thought about writing about this issue again. After all, how many times can I make a case for really tough regulations? But the story won't let go of me. Because I know I bear some responsibility too. I read labels (I hate paying for dry-cleaning, so I always look for washing instructions). I note, in passing, where a particular item was made or assembled. But do I go further than that? No.

It had been reported that the factory, Tazreen Fashions, made clothes for a number of Western companies, including Walmart / Sam's Club, Sears, and others.

In the first days after the fire, Walmart issued a statement saying,

While we are trying to determine if the factory has a current relationship with Walmart or one of our suppliers, fire safety is a critically important area of Walmart’s factory audit program and we have been working across the apparel industry to improve fire safety education and training in Bangladesh.

In yesterday's Times, Steven Greenhouse reported that documents had been found in the factory's rubble that confirm that about one-third of the production lines were devoted to Walmart / Sam's Club products. Of even greater concern, the report stated that

In a related matter, two officials who attended a meeting held in Bangladesh in 2011 to discuss factory safety in the garment industry said on Wednesday that the Walmart official there played the lead role in blocking an effort to have global retailers pay more for apparel to help Bangladesh factories improve their electrical and fire safety.....

According to the minutes of the meeting, which were made available to The Times, Sridevi Kalavakolanu, a Walmart director of ethical sourcing, along with an official from another major apparel retailer, noted that the proposed improvements in electrical and fire safety would involve as many as 4,500 factories and would be "in most cases" a "very extensive and costly modification."

"It is not financially feasible for the brands to make such investments," the minutes said. 

Kevin Gardner, a Walmart spokesman, said the company official’s remarks in Bangladesh were "out of context."

It's hard for me to imagine the context in which those comments, from a "director of ethical sourcing", would be acceptable.

Of course Walmart will do everything possible to squeeze costs from its supply chain. How else can it promise "Save money. Live better."? 

But I don't think I am the only American who would pay a few pennies more for a T-shirt that didn't smell like smoke and sound like screams.

In today's Times, Jim Yardley tries to sift through the data to find how Tazreen, a factory whose "bosses had been faulted for violations during inspections conducted on behalf of Walmart and at the behest of the Business Social Compliance Initiative, a European organization", and still managed to continue receiving orders from major companies, "slipping through the gaps in the system by delivering the low costs and quick turnarounds that buyers — and consumers — demand." (Yardley's full story, worth reading in its depressing entirety, is here)

Who bears the ultimate responsibility? We all do.

Yardley quotes Richard Locke, deputy dean of MIT's Sloan School of Management: "We as consumers like to be able to buy ever-greater quantities of ever-cheaper goods, every year.Somebody is bearing the cost of it, and we don’t want to know about it. The people bearing the cost were in this fire."

Many of the victims were young women, drawn from rural Bangladeshi villages to the outskirts of Dhaka, lured by the promise of good wages: $45 a month. (And yes, even in Bangladesh, that's not much to live on.)

Today, both Walmart and Sears are saying that Tazreen was not an authorized supplier. But it's not that simple. Yardley spoke with David Hasanat of the Viyellatex Group, "one of the country's most highly regarded garment manufacturers" who noted that

...that global apparel retailers often depend on hundreds of factories to fill orders. Given the scale of work, retailers frequently place orders through suppliers and other middlemen who, in turn, steer work to factories that deliver low costs — a practice he said is hardly unknown to Western retailers and clothing brands. The order for Walmart’s Faded Glory shorts [being produced at Tazreen at the time of the fire], documents show, was subcontracted from Simco Bangladesh Ltd., a local garment maker. "It is an open secret to allow factories to do that," Mr. Hasanat said. "End of the day, for them it is the price that matters." 

In other words, for the retailers, if they have plausible deniability, that's all that matters.

Corporations won't care until we consumers show that we care.

Ask questions before you buy. Buy from companies and countries in which workers have real rights and regulations have real teeth. If that means each item costs more, buy fewer items.

That's my resolution for the New Year, and I hope you'll join me.